Wildlife watching in Namibia

In this blog post, I’ll let you know about part of my trip to Namibia. This country is a great destination if you want to organize your own first trip to Africa, due to the country's adaptation to self-drive itineraries and safaris. The breathtaking landscapes may be Namibia's highlight, but Etosha National Park can be one of the best places for wildlife watching in Africa. Antelope herds and predators congregate around the waterholes. They look for drinking and refreshing after being the whole day under the hard sun in a country whose rainfall is few and far between. Self-driving in the Natural Park is my strong recommendation. Another interesting place is Okonjima Nature Reserve, on the way to Namibia’s capital from Etosha. It is a private reserve that cares about the survival of predators in the wild and other endangered species such as pangolin or brown hyenas. They also collaborate with AfriCat Foundation for this aim and engage in environmental research and educational projects. The close surveillance of some elusive species increases the chances to spot them in their habitat, transforming this place into an excellent stop for wildlife lovers.

We were leaving Damaraland in the north-west of Namibia, taking the C40 and C38 until Etosha’s gate. The gravel roads were wide and in quite good condition, so we took less time than we thought. On the way, some tiny springbok herds were appearing from time to time. In a dry river stream, we stumbled upon a warthog’s family and a steenbok together, feeding from the little green grass that was still growing in the humid ground. Halfway, we started to spot giraffes in the distance, eating from the top of the acacia trees. It might be a place frequented by them, because just some minutes later, we had other four giraffes on the roadside, just a few meters from our car. We stopped immediately to watch and observe them for a while. During the whole trip we noticed that animals did not get scared by the vehicle and they could tolerate its presence moderately. However, going out of the car frightens them away easily, even with smooth movements and tiptoeing. Wildlife watching on walking trails is tremendously hard since you chase them away easily. Knowing that, our best chance for getting pictures and enjoying their presence were staying in the car for a while. Giraffes do not run away often. So, after assuring the moment in the car, I tried my best to get out quietly to see them better and to take some pictures without the motor shaking. They did not run away, but they were stepping back a few meters after every step of mine. They seemed to move in slow-motion what became truly mesmerizing.

The stretch up ahead became more solitary, flat, and straight. One baboon in the top of an electricity tower awakened our senses again for a while and later we entered C38, a paved road... one concept we had forgotten during this trip!

Before entering the park through the Anderson’s Gate, we were sleeping in a campsite 25km from Okaukuejo. Nothing interesting to do in the area, but it is a proper stopover before the big adventure in Etosha. The anecdote here was bumping into an aggressive zebra snake that even spitted in the face of one of us in the bathroom. These snakes spit their venom with great accuracy, and it can cause temporary or permanent blindness. Luckily, glasses helped us, and our friend just had to wash thoroughly his mouth and face; if any symptoms would have developed, we would have had a big problem, since there was not any hospital around. We asked the staff to come and pick it up. I showed the snake picture and they immediately recognized it. At first, they were just around the snake, maintaining the distance while I was enjoying the moment. Suddenly, when the snake started to go down through the wall, a rock was thrown violently against it. But luckily, the guy’s shot accuracy was not good enough. I started to shout “don’t kill it” as much as I could so they found themselves on their wits’ end and planned a way to trap it. After that, the campsite manager, a German guy, arrived concerned trying to understand what happened. A girl was accompanying him with a butterfly net to pick it up. It was not possible anymore, since after the first attempt we lost sight of it. Even if a camp site change was offered to us, we decided to stay there since our rooftop tents were already mounted and we were feeling tired and lazy. It was the entertainment of the afternoon until we relaxed and proceeded to barbecuing and card playing to regain strength.

Etosha National Park is unique in Africa. It is one of the most visited places in Namibia and, by far, the best for wildlife on your own. The main characteristic is a vast salt pan that once was a lake and which is completely dry during almost the whole year. In very rainy years the salt pan can be fully covered with water as deep as 10cm. Etosha means “huge white place” in Ovambo tribe’s language, and I think it is clear to understand why, considering that the salt pan covers almost a quarter of the park and it also can be seen from space. Etosha boasts numerous waterholes too, including natural and man-made boreholes. There is abundant wildlife around the waterholes year-round guaranteeing good game sightings.

In May, the summer has ended and rain is unlikely. Low season rates still apply, and most parks can be nice and empty. Although Etosha was the busiest place when we were in Namibia, it was not overly crowded. In 2022 there had been strong rains; in many places the vegetation was still lusher and greener than normal. Dry season would have been better for wildlife watching, since animals may congregate at the few places that still remain with water. Furthermore, vegetation becomes clearer and less abundant, offering less hiding out to them. But it did not disappoint us at all.

The most famous and oldest camp is Okaukuejo, in the south, where we would stay for two nights, before changing to Halali camp, between the southern and the eastern gates. The staff was a little bit rude - except the waitress who was a dear. The installation was not very comfortable or sufficient, food and souvenir shops were “empty”, the toilet tanks were not working properly and the paid wifi was out. Furthermore, the petrol station could not use the payment terminal because of signal problems and, to top it all off, it got out of petrol next day (a petrol station without petrol, this is the last straw!). But, despite that, the waterhole is spectacular and you cannot miss staying there at least for one night.

The Okaukuejo waterhole, in the campsite itself, is famous for wildlife spotting. It is provided by benches to offer a good and comfortable experience for the guests and a floodlight at night to not miss any wild activity. Almost at every time during the day you find all kinds of antelopes, and at night, the possibility to observe the black rhino - which is critically endangered - is really high. On our first night after waking up at 5 a.m., we couldn’t help to nose around the waterhole: two lionesses were drinking and bothering a black rhino they had in front. They seemed to want to confront it but the rhino didn’t like their presence and left. It was a cool moment on the campsite.

Etosha is simply fabulous. An amazing place to see a wide variety of wildlife just by doing a self-drive safari. I strongly recommend doing the safari on your own to decide where and for how long to stop. The official guides do not track any species to increase the chances to spot those elusive ones. They drive a basic itinerary that you already do by yourself, because it is near the campsite. In addition, animal lovers tend to be very generous: if someone spots something interesting nearby, he/she notifies the next car that comes across... It happened to us with the first black rhino we saw and with a leopard.

Herds of antelopes were enormous... We saw springboks and impalas jumping happily everywhere... zebras rolling on the ground, elephants bathing, hyenas fishing and giraffes lying in the shade trying to escape the hard sun! Jackals visiting the campsite at night, squirrels that try to steal your food, banded mongoose running through the campsite, etc. Birds such as the kori bustard - the biggest bird that can fly - or red-crested and northern-black korhaans often crossed the roads. The marabou storks were sharing the Aus waterhole with the hyenas, and we also were able to spot and recognize raptors such as the secretary bird, the white-backed and cape vultures, the African fish eagle and others.

At night, the campsites/lodges close for security, and you cannot leave, unless you book a night drive. Any wildlife tracker enjoys a night out where animal activity does not stop. It is done by vehicles with red lights in order to not disturb the animals. In the first night, we left Okaukuejo and took a route similar to the one that the official guides take during the day, approaching the closest waterholes in the area. Just at the camp enclosure area’s door we saw giraffes crossing. The guide was talking too much, and it was obvious that he knew just the essential words of the explanations of every animal by heart and he didn't know how to improvise. Nevertheless, even if the guide was not so good, the place offered great moments. The first impressive sighting were two black rhinos with a baby, just drinking from the Nebrownii waterhole. Jackals and a Cape fox were surrounding the area as well. Changing the waterhole, a big white rhino appeared... We saw some more rabbits and jackals during the drive until we went back to Newbronii. This time, a solitary elephant was also there. In the last third of the tour, the red light stopped working and we were left in total darkness in front of the elephant. By running out of “light pollution,” the landscape changed... The eyesight adjusted to the natural light reflected by the full moon, and we were completely silent. The sound of the savannah is indescribable; the howls of the jackals warning each other got into our mind making us stunned. The sense boosted and it was possible to discern the water going from the elephant’s trunk to its mouth and even to hear rhino’s sneezes. The African sky is absolutely amazing and bewitching… and I felt that there was nowhere else I’d rather had been. We were not able to properly observe a hyena that appeared by our side, but the experience was worth anyway.

For the third and last night in Etosha we changed the campsite to Halali, in the center of the nature park. It was less crowded and allowed us to explore other areas close-by. The surroundings had more vegetation, and the animals were more difficult to find, but instead we saw many different ones. We observed quite often birds such as the southern yellow-billed hornbill, the lilac breasted roller or the European bee-eater. Hartebeests were also more abundant. The campsite waterhole was not as crowded with species as in Okaukuejo neither, but it was full of weavers that flew in flocks. At sunset this was so spectacular as they were so abundant that it was impossible to see anything: a completely different experience. Between Rhino drive and Eland drive we also found a leopard resting on the road. One couple in a car stopped us just in a corner and they warned us trying to say that they just had seen a leopard about 5 minutes ago. When we asked on which side, they just said “just on the road”. However, we did not expect that so literally, thinking it might have just crossed the road... so we were looking very thoroughly on both sides, but we almost passed by! The leopard was lying down so close to us, that we could have run over it. We stopped by its side and stayed for a while since it became more active. It got up and laid down again about 5m further, between the brush. From there, even being so close yet, it was very difficult to distinguish the leopard from its surrounding. Surely, we passed by a lot of animals without noticing it.

On the way back, between Etosha and Windhoek, there are several private reserves trying to catch visitors by selling wildlife experiences. I’d rather avoid place with direct interaction or shows with animals, so we decided to learn more about Okonjima Nature Reserve, since they actively collaborate with the AfriCat Foundation in the conservation and release of Namibia’s predators. Also, as they monitor some animals for research, tracking them becomes easier and on their safaris, they frequently spot leopards, brown hyenas and pangolin.

The place is spectacular... it extends in 22.000 ha whereby the accommodation area occupies only less than 10% of the property. The enclosed lodge area is perfectly delimited with fences so that cats and predators are not a problem for guests. This area has already quite many populations of different species such as dik-diks - the smallest antelope in the world - steenboks - the second smallest one - kudus, oryxs, springboks, mountain zebras - not very common and in threatened status - common zebras, warthogs, giraffes, etc.

There are some trails that you can walk by yourself inside the enclosed area, but as I said before, walking chases the wildlife away. Furthermore, these trails are also out of the predator area. Thus, just antelopes, giraffes or baboons could be seen. We saw some mammals such as kudus and springboks, but we were aiming more at just enjoying the trekking and the views. However, ee were doing some bird watching, attaining to see some southern yellow-billed hornbills, grey go-away birds, Cape glossy starling or the helmeted guineafowl. From the reception/restaurant, it is possible to observe wildlife that frequents the area. We saw a family of warthogs and some springboks, too. Walking by the gravel road in the enclosed area, you can even bump into some jackals in the evening.

I recommend walking around the camping area quietly before sunset, and paying attention to the sounds of the animals since dik-diks and guineafowls are very active. Stand still if you feel their presence and be patient... They can get used to your presence and get out of the vegetation walking around you. We experienced an incredible moment after following their sounds between the brushwood. We spotted one dik-dik and after keeping silent and inactive for a moment to observe it, a whole group of 5 or 6 appeared in the underbrush. But they continued eating in the open area surrounding us without caring too much about the photo session and our presence.

The highlight of the place is the Natural Reserve with the predators, but it is not accessible on your own. Booking a guided safari here is the best option. There are special-species tracking safaris or more general ones. Guides can track some of the species that are being monitored for research. Some of the animals have radar collars and others are easy to spot, because they are under close surveillance. Even for other more common species, guides can improvise for you to see those animals that interest you the most, because they get news about their location or where they had been active that day. They know their predators’ territory, too. Thus, these safaris are very worthwhile to spot unique wildlife. The most famous experience in Okonjima is the leopard tracking: some individuals in the reserve can be tracked with radar thanks to a collar that locates them over two years. Therefore, the chances of spotting a leopard are very good in the Natural Reserve... The total population of leopards in the reserve is larger than those monitored. Meaning, maybe you bump into one unknown individual. Because leopards are quite territorial, they can roughly control how many leopards share each territory.

Nevertheless, a standard safari can be very spectacular. Again, good guides are really appreciated. Their vast knowledge about their wildlife, their comfort zones or the standard daily activities make it possible to guarantee good sightings and also have nice conversations to learn more about every species. They know when to be quiet and how to do a pleasant explanation without a script - not like Etosha’s guides. We met especially many endangered species in the Nature Reserve such as the mountain zebra, the white rhino, the brown hyena, etc.

My own experience involves a huge male leopard trying to hunt a young oryx. But the leopard failed. After its failure it stretched out under the thorn brush and yawned over and over again. However, we finally left as we were tired of waiting for the leopard to do something else. Later, a white rhino was drinking at a waterhole and crossing the gravel road in front of us. Just before the sunset we also saw a herd of mountain zebras with their colts, a lot of black-faced impalas and others antelopes, a big group of banded mongooses near their home-holes and a brown hyena. On the night safari I was delighted being able to observe twice cape porcupines. We had the luck to find them just in the middle of the path. The second porcupine that we bumped into was a huge individual, but it completely disappeared into the grass that was too tall. Later on, we even encountered an aardvark! They are not frequently seen, thus, I could not be happier!

I also asked to see the ground pangolin. My guide was in contact all afternoon with the guys who were monitoring them for research. In the evening they confirmed that they had tracked down a ground pangolin. Thus, I joined them for a non-trail walk inside the Natural Reserve in the dark. These animals are mostly nocturnal. The ground pangolin is a very endangered species, thus, observing them is just a luxury. We met with one research collaborator at a crossroad and then we started to walk. We were walking through the brushwood under the splendid African night sky and enjoying the warm and pleasant temperature - in drive safaris, in contrast, you can feel really cold. The sounds of the animals around were really stunning and the thought of walking in the dark in the predator zone, escorted by two guys with a stick, was completely unique. We were trying to locate a second guy that collaborates in the research. He was following the pangolin to not lose it from his sight. They were communicating with a walkie-talkie to find each other. After the indications, we were turning off our lamps to be in the darkness and trying to distinguish the guy with the lamp’s light in the sky... but we could not see anything. Then, we were pointing out with our most powerful light to the sky while they were communicating via walkie-talkie. I could not understand a word. After than, we were continuing walking. After a while, I realized that we were walking senselessly. It was hard to pinpoint the second guy since the pangolin moved too far and the lamp light was impossible to see. It was a totally failure, but it lingered our nice night walk and that is a good point.

At last, the pangolin decided to approach a road and they recognized the new location. Pangolins walk continuously vast distances searching for food and this one had moved away too much. Thus, we went back to the car and drove there to be faster. Before parking, we sighted the guy’s lamp light in the sky very clearly, so finally we did it! We changed our lamp mode to red light - in order to not disturb the pangolin - and we approached it gently and in silence, maintaining a discreet distance. It was non-stop walking. It walked on its hind legs and its tail for balance. I was told that pangolins are among the most critically endangered and illegally trafficked animals in the world. I couldn’t be more upset because of that... They are really vulnerable and unable to defend themselves. We were there for a while, walking beside it... A few times it got close to our feet searching for termites and ants... I think it was an indicator that it was not disturbed by us! It was an idyllic culmination of our stay in Okonjima.

Aardvark (Orycteropus afer), African elephant (Loxodonta africana), African lion (Panthera leo), African wildcat (Felis ocreata namaquana), Angolan giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis angolensis), banded mongoose (Mungos mungo), black rhino (Diceros bicornis), black-backed jackal (Lupulella mesomelas), black-faced impala (Aepyceros melampus petersi), blue wildebeest (Connochaetes taurinus), brown hyena (Parahyaena brunnea), cape fox (Vulpes chama), cape ground squirrel (Geosciurus inauris), cape porcupine (Hystrix africaeaustralis), chacma baboon (Papio ursinus), common warthog (Phacochoerus africanus), Damara dik-dik (Madoqua kirkii), Damara ground squirrel (Geosciurus princeps), dwarf mongoose (Helogale parvula), greater kudu (Tragelaphus strepsiceros), ground pangolin (Smutsia temminckii), Hartmann’s mountain zebra (Equus zebra hartmannae), klipspringer (Oreotragus oreotragus), leopard (Panthera pardus), plains zebras (Equus quagga), red hartebeest (Alcelaphus buselaphus caama), scrub hare (Lepus saxatilis), slender mongoose (Herpestes sanguineus), small spotted genet (Genetta genetta), Smith's bush squirrel (Paraxerus cepapi), South African oryx or gemsbok (Oryx gazella), spotted hyena (Crocuta crocuta), sprinkbok (Antidorcas marsupialis), striped tree squirrel (Funisciurus congicus), white rhino (Ceratotherium simum), yellow mongoose (Cynictis penicillata)

African masked weaver (Ploceus velatus), African stonechat (Saxicola torquatus), black-throated canary (Crithagra atrogularis), blacksmith lapwing (Vanellus armatus), booted eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus), cape glossy starling (Lamprotornis nitens), cape ostrich (Struthio camelus australis), cuckoo-finch or parasitic weaver (Anomalospiza imberbis), Egyptian goose (Alopochen aegyptiaca), European bee-eater (Merops apiaster), grey go-away-bird (Corythaixoides concolor), groundscraper thrush (Turdus litsitsirupa), helmeted guineafowl (Numida meleagris), kori bustard (Ardeotis kori), lappet-faced vulture (Torgos tracheliotos), lilac-breasted roller (Coracias caudatus), marabou stork (Leptoptilos crumenifer), northern black korhaan (Afrotis afraoides), ovambo sparrowhawk (Accipiter ovampensis), pale-winged starling (Onychognathus nabouroup), pallid harrier (Circus macrourus), palm-nut vulture (Gypohierax angolensis), pink-billed lark (Spizocorys conirostris), red-billed quelea or red-billed weaver (Quelea quelea), red-billed spurfowl (Pternistis adspersus), red-headed finch (Amadina erythrocephala), secretary bird (Sagittarius serpentarius), sociable weaver (Philetairus socius), southern white-faced owl (Ptilopsis granti), southern yellow-billed hornbill (Tockus leucomelas), tawny eagle (Aquila rapax), Temminck's courser (Cursorius temminckii), tractrac chat (Emarginata tractrac), white-browed sparrow-weaver (Plocepasser mahali), yellow-crowned bishop (Euplectes afer)

I’m Bea MR, engineer by profession, but backpacker by heart. Nature and wildlife are my passion and, with age, I have decided to devote every vacation to backpack my things and get to know this wild and enriching part of the world before it is going to an end. I really love tailoring my own travels and now I have decided to share it with all of you. Feel free to learn more about this trip to Namibia and soon, I will share more experiences in my brand new blog.

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