Fin whales off the coasts of Spain, Vilanova i la Geltrú in Catalonia

One spring, I set off for Spain to watch fin whales off the coast of Catalonia. Whether I succeeded, the challenges I faced, and the fascinating dolphins I encountered along the way — I share all of this in this blog post.

On the Azores, I’ve already had the chance to see blue whales, sperm whales, and numerous dolphin species – impressive encounters with some of the largest and most vibrant inhabitants of our oceans. Yet one animal has always been missing from my list: the fin whale. Even in Iceland, neither on trips from Húsavík nor from Reykjavík, was I lucky enough to meet one of these ocean giants. And in Italy? Unfortunately, I didn’t see a fin whale there either.

Instead, I eventually found myself standing before the skeleton of a fin whale at the Ozeaneum – impressive, certainly. And yet, the desire for a real, living encounter with a fin whale remained.

So the decision grew to travel to Spain in the spring – more precisely to Vilanova i la Geltrú, a small coastal town south of Barcelona. There, I wanted to try my luck once more – hoping at last to meet a fin whale in the wild.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain

My journey to Vilanova i la Geltrú was not by chance, but for a very specific reason: it is home to the organization EDMAKTUB. This non-profit initiative is dedicated to the scientific study of marine mammals, with a special focus on the fin whales that migrate along the Catalan coast each year between February and June.

Information: By the way, Dénia, located further south along the Mediterranean coast, is also considered a good place to observe fin whales during their seasonal migration. There, too, the animals pass close to the shore and – with a bit of luck – offer impressive sightings even from land.

As part of their Fin Whale Project, the researchers regularly head out to sea on a specially equipped research boat – and they offer interested participants the opportunity to join them and gain an insight into their work.

For me, it was the perfect opportunity – not only to finally see a fin whale in the wild, but also to learn more about the behavior, lifestyle, and research of these fascinating animals.

To say it right away, though: I did see a fin whale – but only from a great, very great distance. No impressive surfacing nearby, no deep exhalation beside the boat.

Yes, I admit, that was a bit sobering, especially since I spent almost two weeks there. And yet I know: the sea cannot be planned. Field research is not a show, but patient, often invisible work – shaped by wind, weather, and the freedom of the animals.

Still, it was a valuable experience. And perhaps for that very reason, an authentic glimpse into the world of whale watching and marine research.

That’s why, unfortunately, I can’t share a single photo of fin whales in this post.

If you’d like to see impressive images (including drone footage) of fin whales off the Spanish coast, I recommend visiting the Instagram profile of @edmaktub_org.

Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

Ein Beitrag geteilt von EDMAKTUB (@edmaktub)

Even though I didn’t encounter a fin whale up close, I was still lucky enough to observe several other marine mammals – which ones, I’ll share further down.

Before I get to those encounters, however, I’d like to share a few thoughts about fin whales. This feels important to me, because fin whales are among those ocean giants that often stand in the shadow of their more spectacular relatives – such as humpback whales, who captivate crowds with their powerful leaps out of the water.

Whether fin whales actually breach the way humpbacks do, I honestly don’t know. (Photo: Humpback whale off South Africa).

Plettenberg Bay

Fin whales are the second-largest whales on Earth, right after the blue whale (top left photo: blue whale off the Azores). This means they surpass other impressive species in size, such as the southern right whale (top right photo: off South Africa), the Bryde’s whale (bottom left photo: also off South Africa), or the minke whale (bottom right photo: off Reykjavík).

Even though the fin whale isn’t the largest whale on the planet, it is the largest one in the Mediterranean Sea.

blue whales in the Azores
Whale watching in Plettenberg Bay
Whale watching in Plettenberg Bay
whale watching in Reykjavík

Information: If you’d like to know which other whales and dolphins live in the Mediterranean Sea, take a look at one of my earlier posts. You can also watch whales and dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea from Italy.

Fin whales belong to the family of rorquals (Balaenopteridae). They are characterized by the ventral grooves that run from the throat down across the chest to the middle of the body. These pleats expand when the whale opens its mouth wide and takes in large amounts of water – allowing the throat area to stretch significantly in order to capture prey efficiently. (Tip: On EDMAKTUB’s Instagram profile, you can find impressive videos that show this behavior in action.)

At the same time, fin whales are part of the baleen whale group (Mysticeti). Instead of teeth, they have so-called baleen plates – flexible keratin structures in the upper jaw used to filter krill and other tiny organisms from the water.

Information: Right whales, such as the southern right whale, northern right whale, and bowhead whale, also belong to the baleen whales, but they are not rorquals because they lack the characteristic ventral grooves. In addition to baleen whales, there are also the toothed whales (Odontoceti), which include sperm whales, beaked whales, porpoises, and dolphins.

The first confirmed sightings of fin whales off the Catalan coast near Vilanova i la Geltrú date back to 2011 and 2013. These discoveries marked the starting point for EDMAKTUB’s Fin Whale Project, which was launched in 2013. Since then, the researchers have attempted each year, from March to June – weather permitting – to regularly observe and study fin whales scientifically.

Over the years, the team has shown that the region is an important feeding ground for fin whales: about 70% of the animals observed displayed clear feeding behavior. To support these observations scientifically, zooplankton samples are also collected to analyze the composition and availability of their food. The various methods EDMAKTUB uses are described in detail on the project’s website.

When I was on site, we were able to spot a fin whale only once during the two weeks – and even then, from a great distance. According to the researchers, this was rather unusual. Interestingly, the collected samples also indicated that the zooplankton that year was noticeably smaller than usual.

Could that have been the reason? Did the whales simply have too little to eat – and therefore largely avoid the region?

One particularly exciting aspect of the project is the use of drones, which allow individual fin whales to be identified. According to EDMAKTUB, around 400 whales have been recorded this way – significantly more than with traditional photo-identification, which has cataloged about 280 individuals so far. Overall, by October 2025 (i.e., at the time of this post), over 730 fin whales have been documented off the Catalan coast.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain

Tip: If you’d like to learn more about identifying fin whales using drones, I recommend the research article “A Novel Technique for Photo-Identification of the Fin Whale, Balaenoptera physalus, as Determined by Drone Aerial Images” by Degollada et al. (2023). Additional scientific publications, as well as fascinating drone footage, can be found on EDMAKTUB’s website under the sections Publications & Work and Drones applied to Cetacean Research.”

Even though I wasn’t able to observe a fin whale up close, my time on site was still incredibly valuable. I not only gained exciting experiences but also witnessed the dedication and commitment with which two passionate researchers study fin whales off the Catalan coast.

Although I have participated in whale-watching trips several times before, I am reminded anew each time how demanding this work can be. As much as I love being out at sea, it is physically challenging, weather-dependent, and full of uncertainty.

Our knowledge of life in the ocean is still incomplete. Many marine animals, including fin whales, are difficult to study. All the more reason to be grateful for projects like EDMAKTUB, which dedicate themselves to these animals with perseverance and scientific rigor.

Even without a close encounter with a fin whale, there were fascinating observations at sea. Which marine mammals I encountered, you’ll read in the next section.

EDMAKTUB welcomes support in many forms: you can participate in the project, report sightings if you spot a fin whale yourself, or support the research with a donation. Purchasing a T-shirt or drone footage also contributes to funding their work.

Encounters with dolphins

On my first day on the boat, we set off early in the morning. Alongside me were interns, students, and dedicated volunteers – so it wasn’t a typical tourist excursion. This was exactly what I had hoped for: I wanted to go out with people who were just as passionate about marine animals as I am.

The day before, the crew had spotted a group of pilot whales, and I was really hoping that, in addition to the majestic fin whales, we would encounter these fascinating creatures as well.

But luck was not on our side that day: neither pilot whales nor fin whales appeared – and no other marine mammals showed themselves either. From my perspective, it wasn’t a particularly successful first day in terms of whale and dolphin watching.

Still, I was able to make extraordinary observations – experiences that made the day special for me nonetheless.

leaf warbler

In fact – it was a warbler! I really hadn’t expected that in the middle of the Mediterranean. On the other hand, it makes sense: warblers are migratory birds, heading north in the spring to reach their breeding grounds.

Our boat offered this tiny traveler a welcome opportunity for a short break. Though “break” might not be quite the right word – the warbler seemed anything but relaxed. It flitted restlessly from one spot to another, never staying in one place for more than a few moments.

leaf warbler
leaf warbler

I rarely get to see a warbler this close – in fact, it almost never happens. The little bird, apparently traveling alone, was also noticeably less shy than I’m used to from its species. I cautiously edged a bit closer, careful not to startle it. Perhaps I could still manage a close-up – even though, of course, I didn’t have my usual 150–600 mm lens with me that I normally use for bird photography.

leaf warbler

The warbler actually allowed me to take photos of it.

Shortly after, it flew onto the roof of the boat, where it paused for a moment, gazing into the distance – as if orienting itself or saying goodbye. Then it turned, took off, and was gone.

bird watching in a boat
bird watching in a boat

Information: Since I couldn’t hear the bird, it was difficult for me to identify it with certainty. It was most likely a chiffchaff. Normally, I hear the characteristic call of this species regularly in the forest – but I rarely get to see one. That’s why it was all the more remarkable to encounter a chiffchaff in a place where I least expected it: right in the middle of the Mediterranean.

I don’t think anyone else on board was as fascinated by the little bird as I was. Of course, we were all still keeping an eye out for the fin whales – but there was still no sign of them. Other dolphins didn’t appear either. Where could they be?

And then, suddenly, a new and surprising sighting appeared before me: a puffin!

puffins in the Mediterranean Sea

I’m most familiar with puffins from Iceland, though I had read that they are supposedly also found in the Mediterranean. That I would actually encounter one – and in Spain, no less – was something I hadn’t expected. Of course, I was thrilled by this sighting!

Still, whales and dolphins remained nowhere in sight. Where could they be?

In the meantime, we did spot a beautiful Audouin’s gull, which I was later able to identify with the help of iNaturalist.

gulls in the Mediterranean Sea

Unfortunately, the weather was not on our side, so we had to stay on land for the next five days. It rained continuously for two days, and on the other days the wind was too strong. For one, we had to remain on land for safety reasons, and high waves make whale and dolphin watching much more difficult anyway.

The first outing had lasted about eight hours. Normally, I really enjoy my time on the boat, but on that day it was almost a relief to spend the next two days indoors – especially since I was still recovering from a cold. It was cold on the boat, I didn’t have enough layers (the morning had looked sunny), and I had arrived in Spain right in the middle of a cold. Technically, I should have stayed in bed, but that was out of the question for me.

Information: One website I regularly used to check whether the weather was suitable for an outing is Windy. It’s also handy in other locations for viewing current wind conditions and forecasts for the coming days.

So we spent five days on land. During the first two days, I stayed mostly indoors due to my lingering cold. When the rain eased, I began to explore the surroundings. Further below, I’ll share some impressions of the beautiful landscape I encountered on my hikes.

But first, let’s return to the whales and dolphins. On our next outing, which lasted several hours, we encountered striped dolphins.

striped dolphin

Of course, I knew their behavior all too well. Fast, playful, and often unpredictable for wildlife photographers like me. In moments like these, I’m always reminded how important it is to know the habits and movements of the animals you want to photograph.

Since I couldn’t practice regularly on a boat, I had to improvise. Sometimes a rope was in the way, other times I was too slow and couldn’t focus properly with my camera. And yet other times I followed the dolphins, hoping they would surface – but they simply didn’t show themselves.

striped dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea
striped dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea
striped dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea

By the way, striped dolphins are called striped dolphins, because a black band runs from the eye to the pectoral fins. In addition, two more bands or stripes run from the eyes along the sides of the body toward the rear.

Striped dolphins belong to the genus Stenella, the most widely distributed group. Admittedly, I’ve now seen striped dolphins a few times, but I haven’t personally seen the other species yet.

By the end of the day, I was fortunate enough to get a series of acceptable photos of the agile striped dolphins, where the pattern of their stripes is clearly visible.

striped dolphins of the coast of Spain

Information: On my blog, you’ll find posts about whales and dolphins in the Azores as well as in Italy. I was also able to observe striped dolphins there.

Since we were searching for the fin whales, we didn’t stay long with the striped dolphins. Just like on the first outing, no fin whales were in sight.

We took turns scanning for whales with binoculars from several positions on the boat, so everyone could take a short break in between.

Unfortunately, during the second outing I participated in, we didn’t spot any other marine mammals. It also became windier, so we couldn’t stay out at sea for long that day. On the following two days, we again had to remain on land for safety reasons due to the wind. That was of course disappointing – especially since my cold had improved by then. But that’s field research.

In the meantime, I took a trip to Barcelona – even there, the strong wind was very noticeable.

When the wind finally eased, we were able to go out to sea again after a two-day break. The first remarkable sighting on this third outing, however, was neither a whale nor a dolphin: it was a razorbill.

razorbill in the Mediterranean Sea

What a fantastic sighting: to spot another auk in the Mediterranean alongside the puffin! It seemed completely at ease, floating on the deep blue water without a care in the world.

Having now seen two auks in the Mediterranean, I naturally wondered about the effects of climate change on these species. Puffins and razorbills are generally more common in the north – so how unusual is it to still observe them this far south?

In fact, it’s apparently not entirely uncommon to see auks like puffins or razorbills in the Mediterranean. Whether there has already been a shift in their range further north, I unfortunately do not know. If you know more about this, I would be very happy to receive a comment or further information.

This is precisely why I love supporting projects like iNaturalist, where many people share their observations. Together, we can learn more about specific animals – and even plants.

Information: If you’d like to learn more about razorbills, you can check one of my earlier posts. There, I was able to observe razorbills on Helgoland and in Iceland.

The day promised to be beautiful. As I scanned the sea for more exciting sightings – and, of course, for fin whales – I didn’t forget to enjoy the stunning Catalan landscape around me.

fin whales of the coasts-of-spain

Then someone on board spotted a dolphin fin a little farther out. Were they the striped dolphins again?

No – this time, they were bottlenose dolphins.

And it wasn’t just one bottlenose dolphin – there were at least two. A smaller dolphin swam close beside a larger one, seemingly moving in sync with it.

fin whales ooff the coasts of Spain

But it wasn’t just two dolphins – there were more.

The bottlenose dolphins moved noticeably slower than the fast striped dolphins, but they also showed their playful side. One of them even leapt so high that its entire body briefly emerged from the water – though partially hidden behind the dolphin in front.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain

Yes, photographing dolphins is anything but easy.

But then, a dolphin surfaced a little closer to the boat – a moment I had been hoping for.

bottlenose dolphins off the coasts of Spain

I was glad that we also took the time to watch the bottlenose dolphins. Even though we were searching for fin whales – and I so much hoped to see some – I was delighted to encounter these playful dolphins.

It’s also important to know that EDMAKTUB primarily studies fin whales. This means that, so far (or perhaps for now), no photo-identification is being conducted on the bottlenose dolphins. Photo-identification involves recognizing individual animals by their dorsal fins. Bottlenose dolphins have notches in their dorsal fins that can be used for this individual identification.

bottlenose dolphins off the coasts of Spain

EDMAKTUB identifies individual animals primarily through drone footage (see above and on their website). However, this is done only for fin whales, not for bottlenose dolphins.

When photographing the dorsal fins of bottlenose dolphins in order to later identify individual animals, the viewing angle plays a crucial role. If a dolphin is swimming away, it naturally becomes very difficult to use the dorsal fin for clear identification.

bottlenose dolphins off the coasts of Spain

At one moment, I managed a particularly nice shot: two dolphins surfaced at the same time – one farther ahead, the other farther back – and I was able to capture the face of both.

bottlenose dolphins off the coasts of Spain

By now, I had already seen the bottlenose dolphins several times, and this sighting was truly special. The dolphins swam leisurely and surfaced repeatedly, much more predictably than in previous observations. Combined with the wonderful weather, I thoroughly enjoyed the moment, even though I was still hoping to see fin whales.

Bottlenose dolphins, like striped dolphins, are quite widespread. They are usually found in tropical waters, but they can also be observed in more northern regions such as Scotland or far south in South Africa, where I have personally seen them as well.

bottlenose dolphins off the coasts of Spain

Information: South Africa is a true paradise for whale and dolphin watching. There, I have seen humpback whales, southern right whales, and Bryde’s whales – as well as bottlenose dolphins, common dolphins, and humpback dolphins.

One of the bottlenose dolphins had something hanging from its dorsal fin. Unfortunately, I only noticed it afterward and couldn’t determine exactly what it was. I don’t think it was a piece of skin – perhaps it was some plant material floating in the sea.

bottlenose dolphins off the coasts of Spain

The bottlenose dolphins sometimes came very close to the boat. However, the researchers didn’t simply speed after the group; instead, they moved carefully and slowly – letting the dolphins decide for themselves how close they wanted to get.

bottlenose dolphins off the coasts of Spain
bottlenose dolphins off the coasts of Spain

When the dolphins came too close to the boat, it became more difficult for me to photograph them. I was able to get better close-ups when they kept a bit of distance. Occasionally, I had to shoot against the backlight, but the bottlenose dolphins mainly surfaced slowly, providing many good opportunities.

bottlenose dolphins off the coasts of Spain

Information: If you’re looking for a field guide on marine mammals, I can recommend “Whales, Dolphins, and Seals – A Field Guide to the Marine Mammals of the World” by Hadoram Shirihai and Brett Jarrett. In addition to numerous illustrations of each species, the book provides a wealth of information about their distribution, ecology, and appearance.

As mentioned earlier, bottlenose dolphins are found worldwide. However, there are differences within the species: some live closer to shore, while others stay farther out at sea. The dolphins living farther from land are usually larger, more robust, and uniformly darker in color. They also generally have smaller pectoral fins and a shorter snout. These characteristics are especially typical of bottlenose dolphins in colder waters, as they help reduce heat loss to the surrounding environment.

bottlenose dolphins off the coasts of Spain

We actually stayed with the bottlenose dolphins a bit longer than we did with the striped dolphins on another day. I suspect this was because bottlenose dolphins are less commonly encountered than striped dolphins. During the two weeks in Spain, I had indeed seen striped dolphins most frequently.

I was still hoping to see Risso’s dolphins – and pilot whales would, of course, have been an amazing experience as well, in addition to the fin whales. For now, however, I focused on the bottlenose dolphins. One of them had a slightly larger notch at the tip of its dorsal fin.

bottlenose dolphins off the coasts of Spain

I spotted a smaller dolphin swimming close beside a larger one again. Perhaps these were the same two I had seen at the very beginning.

Bottlenose dolphins off the coasts of Spain
bottlenose dolphins off the coasts of Spain
Bottlenose dolphins off the coasts of Spain
bottlenose dolphins off the coasts of Spain

After spending some time with the bottlenose dolphins, we moved on – after all, we were still searching for fin whales. I took one last photo, and then we continued our journey.

bottlenose dolphins off the coast of Spain

What we didn’t know at the time was that this would be our last encounter with a dolphin that day.

The following day promised to be particularly promising. To spend even more time on the boat, the two researchers decided to set out even earlier the next morning – making the most of the good weather.

When we arrived at the harbor, I thought only: Luckily, we’re starting earlier. This way, I was able to enjoy a beautiful sunrise.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain

The colors, the warm light, and the anticipation of the day ahead on the boat made for a perfect start to the morning.

By the way, we weren’t the only ones out and about so early.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain
fin whales off the coasts of Spain

The first fishermen were already out at sea.

Speaking of fishermen — when they spot fin whales, they inform the researchers from EDMAKTUB. Fishermen farther north, around Barcelona, are also in contact with EDMAKTUB or are reached out to by them.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain

At the beginning of the trips, it was rather unlikely to see whales or dolphins. We had to go far out to sea, especially to find the whales.

At first, I mostly just enjoyed the beautiful views — and on this day in particular, the gentle colors of the morning.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain

Even though the day had started out promising, that didn’t necessarily mean we would spot any whales or dolphins. We searched and searched — just like on the days before — but there was no sign of the fin whales anywhere.

Since the weather was beautiful, we had planned to stay out as long as possible. It actually turned out to be our longest trip yet: we set off at sunrise and didn’t return until after dark.

But in the late afternoon, we finally found Risso’s dolphins!

Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea

I was overjoyed. It seemed to be a larger group, but the dolphins were quite spread out — in front of us, behind us, to the left and right. At any moment, a Risso’s dolphin could appear anywhere around the boat, and I didn’t even know where to look first.

Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea

The nice thing was that there was no issue finding space. From “regular” whale and dolphin tours, I knew it could sometimes be hard to get a good spot. But since this was a research trip rather than a tourist excursion, that wasn’t a problem. Still, you really do need genuine interest for a trip like this — it lasts many, many hours.

Nevertheless, the Risso’s dolphins seemed to be in excellent spirits.

Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea

I had already seen Risso’s dolphins in the Azores, but there they seemed shyer and less playful. They also didn’t come as close to the boat as they did on this day.

Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea

Suddenly, one of the Risso’s dolphins leapt out of the water — unfortunately, the photo only captured a big splash. But the dolphin jumped once more, and this time I could see almost the whole body. What a beautiful sight!

Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea
Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea
Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea

Sometimes they just peeked briefly out of the water and then dove back in with a headfirst splash, sending water flying.

Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea

The fact that dolphins are so popular is probably also because their facial expression gives the impression that they’re smiling.

Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea

By the way, Risso’s dolphins — much like bottlenose dolphins — are widely distributed. They live in the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceans, and also in the Mediterranean Sea, though not everywhere there, but mainly in its western part.

They can also be observed in Italy, although apparently they are becoming increasingly rare there. I haven’t yet found out why that is, so as always, I’d be happy to hear any insights or comments about it.

Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea

Risso’s dolphins are relatively easy to identify because over their lifetime they accumulate numerous scratches, scrapes, and scars. The more markings an individual has, the older it is likely to be. Young Risso’s dolphins, on the other hand, are usually still uniformly gray.

Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea
Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea
Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea

We also stayed with the Risso’s dolphins for a relatively long time — longer than with the striped dolphins. Such encounters don’t seem to be very common off Barcelona.

I tried to get a close-up of the Risso’s dolphins focusing on their faces, but that wasn’t easy. Often, they were too close to the boat. I was shooting with a 70–200mm lens — usually perfect, but for dolphins that close, the focal length was simply too long. Fortunately, I still managed to get a few decent shots.

Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea
Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea
Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea

Eventually, the group of Risso’s dolphins began to spread out. It was hard to tell where they were heading. We continued a bit further, and a few dolphins still accompanied us. But gradually, their numbers dwindled until finally, none were left in sight.

Risso's dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea

It was already late afternoon, but a return hadn’t been planned yet. Maybe the fin whales would still appear? For the researchers, it was a bit unusual that no fin whales had been sighted so far — that wasn’t normal. They even considered going further out and staying on the boat overnight. Honestly, I was glad we didn’t, because by evening I always got a bit cold. In April, it was still quite chilly.

We searched for a while longer, and finally the fast striped dolphins appeared beside us. I tried to anticipate their quick movements — which I almost never managed, I was simply too slow.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain
fin whales off the coasts of Spain
fin whales off the coasts of Spain
fin whales off the coasts of Spain

We didn’t stop, but kept moving — yet the dolphins stayed close to us. It was truly a beautiful sight!

As dusk gradually fell, we finally headed back. Even though we hadn’t seen any fin whales, it had been an exceptionally lovely day overall.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain

We arrived back at the harbor late, after it was already dark. The following day, we had to stay on land again — the wind was, once more, too strong. After the long day at sea the day before, though, the land break was actually a relief. As much as I love being on the boat, fieldwork can be quite exhausting.

On my last day in Vilanova i la Geltrú, we were luckily able to head out to sea one more time — the final chance to see fin whales! At first, we encountered numerous birds.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain

Various species of gulls, such as the Audouin’s gull (top left) and the yellow-legged gull (top right), flew overhead. A sandwich tern was also on the move (bottom of the photo).

birds off the coast of Spain
birds off the coast of Spain
birds off the coast of Spain

Fishing boats were already out at sea as well.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain

Where the fishing boats were active, dolphins would surely appear too — and indeed, the first bottlenose dolphin soon showed up.

Bottlenose dolphins again? Of course, I was happy about the encounter. This time, however, we didn’t stay with them for long, because the two researchers were increasingly concerned about why we hadn’t seen any fin whales yet.

The wind conditions on my last day at sea were actually very good — you could tell from the smooth surface of the water.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain

I wondered if it might be the same group we had seen a few days earlier. A younger dolphin swam close beside a larger one — presumably its mother.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain

Overall, the conditions for photography were quite good. The water surface was calm, and the dolphins weren’t swimming too fast. It was a rather gray day, but still good — after all, everything can’t be perfect all the time.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain
fin whales off the coasts of Spain
fin whales off the coasts of Spain
fin whales off the coasts of Spain

Some dolphins slapped the water surface with their tail fins.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain
fin whales off the coasts of Spain

Near the bottlenose dolphins, there were more interesting sightings: suddenly, a sunfish leapt out of the water.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain

And at another moment, a swordfish.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain

Although these two sightings were brief and unexpected, they were still beautiful. I was really lucky that my camera was ready.

In the distance, we also spotted some striped dolphins.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain

At that moment, the striped dolphins didn’t interest us much. Where were the fin whales? That question occupied all of us.

Suddenly, one of the interns spotted a fin whale. She was overjoyed to have seen it, and I was happy for her — especially since she had been struggling with seasickness on the previous days.

We headed toward the fin whale and got closer and closer. But it was too fast and didn’t seem interested in staying around — presumably there wasn’t much to eat at the moment.

Of course, that was disappointing — for me, for the others on the boat, and certainly for the two researchers as well.

One of the last wildlife encounters of the day was another puffin.

fin whales off the coasts of Spain

Even though we searched for a long time, the fin whale quickly disappeared. Perhaps several fin whales had been nearby over the past two weeks while we were at sea — we just hadn’t been able to spot them.

Later in the year, the researcher and the interns headed toward Galicia, along the entire Spanish coast. On their way, they encountered the fin whales there. I was really happy for them.

If you want to see beautiful photos of fin whales, I recommend — as mentioned earlier — checking out EDMAKTUB’s Instagram page. There you’ll also find a lot of additional information about the fin whales.

Days on land: Barcelona and hikes in the surrounding area

During the days on land, I went on several hikes — entirely alone, since the others were busy with their projects or reading research articles. Since I was only there for two weeks, I wanted to spend as much time outdoors as possible. As much as I was interested in whales and dolphins, I could read research articles at home. I didn’t want to sit at a computer; if the weather allowed, I had to get outside.

One of my first hikes took me from Vilanova i la Geltrú toward Sitges, though I didn’t go all the way into the town. The route ran partly along the sea and partly along the railway tracks. It was quite manageable and not dangerous. Along the way, I encountered several people — I wasn’t the only one taking this path.

Vilanova i la Geltrú
Vilanova i la Geltrú
Vilanova i la Geltrú
Vilanova i la Geltrú
Vilanova i la Geltrú
Vilanova i la Geltrú
Vilanova i la Geltrú
Vilanova i la Geltrú
Vilanova i la Geltrú

My next hike took me further inland, toward Parc del Foix. The path wound through dry, dusty landscapes with occasional houses. At the end of the hike, there was one last steep climb, but the effort was rewarded with stunning views of the sea and the town of Vilanova i la Geltrú.

This hike was beautiful as well. At first, I encountered only a few people, but the closer I got to Parc del Foix, the more hikers I met — apparently, many people knew where the most scenic spots were. I was glad to have discovered this place.

Vilanova i la Geltrú
Vilanova i la Geltrú
Vilanova i la Geltrú
Vilanova i la Geltrú
Vilanova i la Geltrú
Vilanova i la Geltrú
Vilanova i la Geltrú
Vilanova i la Geltrú

The next day, I took the train to Barcelona. I took only a few photos — specifically of the Sagrada Família. It was Easter weekend, and Barcelona was simply too crowded, so this time I didn’t enjoy the city very much, even though I usually like it a lot.

In one park, however, I came across some monk parakeets.

And a cattle egret.

Many gulls and pigeons filled the park along with the numerous people. It was really crowded. At one point, I approached a bench that was just becoming free — but another woman saw it too and ran to grab it before me. Wow! I decided to leave the city; I didn’t feel like staying any longer.

On another day, I hiked not toward Sitges, i.e., north, but south. At first, the path was still pleasant and also ran along the railway tracks, but overall I preferred the two previous hikes. Beautiful murals adorned the houses, and the wind was clearly noticeable.

Beautiful walks can also be enjoyed in Vilanova i la Geltrú — even in less favorable weather. I visited the beach on gray days as well and really enjoyed it.

Even though the weather wasn’t always on our side and I could only observe the fin whales from a distance, I had an amazing time with EDMAKTUB and gained many new experiences. It was particularly impressive to see the dedication and determination with which the two researchers studied the fin whales.

A stay with EDMAKTUB is certainly only for those who are genuinely interested in the animals, as the hours on the boat can be very long. Patience and great interest are required to successfully observe the animals. Anyone who wants to learn more about their work should definitely check out EDMAKTUB’s website.

Practical informationen

The Garraf bus provides an easy and quick way to get from the airport to Vilanova i la Geltrú. The journey takes about an hour and costs around 10 euros. Please check the bus company’s website for the current prices. The bus line is E15.1.

Another option for reaching Vilanova i la Geltrú is by train. The L9S metro goes to El Prat de Llobregat, from where you can continue to Vilanova i la Geltrú on the R2 train. You can find current schedules on the Gencat website.

In Vilanova i la Geltrú, I stayed in an apartment that I shared with the interns and another person who was also there for only two weeks.

More informationen

Official website of EDMAKTUB

Instagram of EDMAKTUB

Wikipedia: Rorquals

Wikipedia: Fin whales

Have you ever seen fin whales or other whales and dolphins? Or have you had another special encounter with these animals? Feel free to share it in the comments!

fin whales off the coasts of Spain
fin whales off the coasts of Spain

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