Barbary macaques in Gibraltar: The only free-roaming monkeys in Europe

Experiencing the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar for myself had been on my wish list for a long time. Last autumn, I finally made it happen. In this article, I’ll take you along on my journey and share my impressions, as well as the challenges of visiting a destination heavily shaped by mass tourism.

Tourism and animals

Tiger and lion photo sessions. Horse-drawn carriage rides. Bullfights. Animal shows featuring boxing orangutans. Elephant rides. Dolphins performing tricks in tanks that are far too small. And so much more.

Time and again, I am amazed, frustrated, and saddened by the kinds of attractions people find appealing while on holiday.

Years ago, I visited a dolphinarium myself. Even then, I felt uncomfortable because I was aware that my admission fee was helping to support the facility. Nevertheless, I wanted to see for myself what a dolphin show was like.

It was heartbreaking to see the dolphins like that. Nothing about it felt natural: neither their environment nor their behaviour. Everything was carefully staged and artificial, created solely for the entertainment of the audience.

What saddened me almost more than the show itself was the enthusiasm it generated. Why do we find pleasure in watching animals perform tricks they have been trained to do for our amusement?

During my travels, I have noticed another common interaction between tourists and wildlife: wildlife feeding—regardless of what they are feeding them. More often than not, it is highly processed food that is neither healthy for the animals nor for us.

In heavily visited tourist destinations, animals often lose their natural fear of humans. They snatch food from visitors, steal it whenever they get the chance, or rummage through litter on the ground in the hope of finding something to eat.

The photo on the left shows a capuchin monkey in Iguazú National Park that has taken a hamburger from a visitor. The photo on the right shows a coati on the Brazilian side of Iguaçu National Park that has found a bag and is searching it for food.

Over the years, I have experienced some truly strange things during my travels, and I am constantly surprised by the kinds of things people get excited about.

I often find myself wondering: Why is it so important to have a selfie with a wild, exotic animal? Why do so many people seem to feel the need to touch wild animals? And why do some people take pleasure in teasing wildlife that has become accustomed to human presence?

On this blog, I try to show that wildlife watching can be a truly, truly wonderful experience—and that there is no need to remove animals from their natural habitat, touch them, or take photos with them to make it meaningful.

At the same time, I do not want to point fingers at others. I do not think that approach convinces many people. Instead, I write about places and wildlife encounters that are possible without causing harm to the animals involved.

I prefer places where I have to actively search for animals, never knowing whether I will actually see one. After all, there are no guarantees when it comes to observing wildlife in its natural environment.

Sometimes, the most important thing you need is patience. Waiting. And then waiting some more.

The photo shows an Arctic fox. Getting him in front of my camera was anything but easy. It was only through a bit of luck that he suddenly appeared right in front of me during an early morning walk. The day before, I had spent hours waiting at a respectful distance from his den, carefully hidden from view.

Whether you’re watching birds or dolphins, patience—and a certain tolerance for frustration—comes with the territory, especially when the animals refuse to show themselves. But those who are willing to wait are often rewarded with the most memorable experiences. And with a little luck, they might even come away with a few photographs.

At this point, however, I would like to mention that I have invested a considerable amount of time in this hobby. It took patience and many hours to be able to take these photos. Simply going somewhere for a short visit and quickly getting a few good shots is usually not how it works.

This blog post now turns to another attraction that draws many visitors to Gibraltar: the Upper Rock. My particular interest lay in its most famous residents—the Barbary macaques that roam freely across the area.

In the next section, I will focus on these Barbary macaques in Gibraltar. And why I have started this post by writing about tourism and wildlife observation will become clear in the following part.

Barbary macaques in Gibraltar on the Upper Rock

One car after another, narrow sidewalks, crowds of people—and on top of that, a heat that felt almost unbearable to me. And it was already October. Still, temperatures climbed to over 25°C.

As soon as I had crossed the runway between La Línea de la Concepción and Gibraltar, I started looking for a patch of green where I could catch my breath for a moment. Only after that did my tour to see the Barbary macaques on the Upper Rock begin.

Not an easy task in Gibraltar. Eventually, I found a shaded spot where I waited for Brian from Monkey Talk.

I had actually planned to arrive much earlier, so I could explore the Upper Rock not only as part of the guided tour but also on my own. In hindsight, however, it was the right decision not to. Partly because of the heat, which felt especially intense in the densely built-up city with its few green spaces. And partly because reaching the macaques on foot would have meant a steep uphill walk—a challenge I was glad to avoid in those temperatures.

The tour with Brian from Monkey Talk therefore took me up to the Upper Rock by car. Although there are also numerous taxis that take visitors to see the Barbary macaques and the various viewpoints, I deliberately chose Monkey Talk. Brian knows the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar particularly well and prefers to take his guests to less crowded locations.

There, the animals can be observed undisturbed in their natural habitat: foraging in the trees, resting, or communicating within their group. It was precisely these authentic insights that made the tour so special for me.

At first, we travelled almost to the highest point of the Upper Rock. From there, I was treated to an impressive view over the Strait of Gibraltar.

It was impressive to see how much ship traffic passes through the Strait. All the more astonishing is the fact that so many animal species still thrive here. During migration seasons, countless birds cross the strait, whales and dolphins forage in its waters, and even the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar on the Upper Rock seem to have found their place here. Whether they actually enjoy the view, however, I was not able to ask them.

Even from up there, Brian already spotted the first Barbary macaques moving between the rocks and trees.

Even though the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar and the Upper Rock can feel quite touristy in places, I overall enjoyed the rock. On a cooler day and outside peak visiting times, it is likely possible to go on some wonderful hikes there. And with a bit of luck, you can regularly come across Barbary macaques sitting in the trees, moving between the rocks, or going about their daily lives. I found the idea of simply watching them in peace particularly appealing.

At the same time, I had the impression that the area is changing. During my visit in October, I noticed how much construction was taking place in Gibraltar, and how much more was still being built. Even from the Upper Rock, several modern high-rise buildings were visible, which, to me, did not blend particularly well into the landscape.

Is this development really an improvement? And what will the surroundings of the Upper Rock look like in the future? Will even more of these buildings be constructed—right next to the habitat of the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar? These were the questions that went through my mind as we continued our tour.

Brian from Monkey Talk initially set out to look for a group of Barbary macaques that were said to be staying away from the heavily visited areas. However, the search was unsuccessful. No animals could be found at another well-known location either.

Eventually, we headed to a spot where the chances were much better. There, we could be fairly certain that we would eventually come across Barbary macaques.

This place was located near the cable car station. Yes, the Upper Rock can also be easily reached by cable car.

Why the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar like to stay in this area is probably obvious: where there are many people, there is often food. During my visit, I did not observe any tourists feeding the monkeys, but it cannot be ruled out. In addition, there is a feeding station nearby where the animals are also provided with food.

It is therefore no surprise that the Barbary macaques regularly spend time in this area. For visitors, this increases the chances of an encounter—although the animals of course remain free to choose where they spend their time.

Brian from Monkey Talk was visibly disappointed that we had not found the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar that stay away from the tourist areas. It was important to him to show me exactly these animals. Still, I was grateful to also get to know this more tourist-oriented side of the Upper Rock. While I generally prefer to observe Barbary macaques in their natural habitat, away from places where they associate human presence with food, the experience was nevertheless interesting for me.

At the cable car station, Brian has also installed information boards for visitors. They are meant to help people learn more about the Barbary macaques and their habitat. At least, I hope that as many visitors as possible take the time to actually read them.

What I also observed there, however, were visitors trying to touch the Barbary macaques or take selfies with them. For the animals, this attention is probably not always pleasant.

What I find particularly problematic is that such photos often spread very quickly on social media and attract a lot of attention. Images showing people apparently interacting closely with wild animals tend to seem more exciting to many than photos of animals simply living in their natural habitat. As a result, it can easily create the impression that close contact with wildlife is normal or even desirable.

Yet the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar are not actually dependent on the area around the cable car station. The Upper Rock offers them plenty of natural food sources. In the surrounding area, for example, olive trees and other plants grow that are part of their diet. All the more reason to hope that these animals can more often be observed where they can engage in their natural behaviour—far away from the crowds of visitors.

Still, the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar seem to repeatedly seek proximity to humans. Perhaps this is due to the fact that food is more easily accessible there, more abundant, or simply more appealing.

I was able to observe some of the animals taking fruit and vegetables from feeding stations before retreating into the trees to eat in peace. While this is not food they have foraged in the strictest sense, it is still a more natural and varied alternative to what they might find in more urbanised areas.

Other Barbary macaques in Gibraltar took the fruit and vegetables and then moved further away to feed, retreating to areas near walls or other sheltered spots where they could eat in peace.

Near the cable car station and the feeding area, Barbary macaques were everywhere. Some were sitting quietly, leaning against walls, others were sleeping, or seemed to be simply waiting. Still others continued eating, completely at ease among the people.

However, there were also Barbary macaques in Gibraltar that stayed much further away, in areas that were not accessible to visitors.

A little further away from the cable car station, but still within reachable distance, I was able to observe another group of Barbary macaques in Gibraltar. Brian from Monkey Talk repeatedly emphasised that this was a different tour than originally planned, as the animals living further away could not be found that day. I understood that: even though the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar on the Upper Rock are highly accustomed to humans, they are still wild animals whose behaviour cannot always be predicted.

We stayed with this group for a while and observed them quietly. One Barbary macaque was sitting calmly on a stone wall.

While others were sitting on the ground.

We stayed at this spot for a while longer to observe the animals, even though other visitors occasionally passed by. The Upper Rock was relatively quiet that day, not as busy as it can be at other times. Since cruise ships also dock in Gibraltar, I would rather not imagine the flow of visitors on those days. The Barbary macaques in Gibraltar on the Upper Rock are then exposed to a wide variety of people—and, above all, large crowds.

How could this be better managed?

On the Upper Rock, there are relatively few direct controls, meaning that visitors are largely responsible for how they behave around the animals. For me personally, it was clear that I would keep my distance, not obstruct the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar, and give them as much space as possible.

Even though some of my photos may appear very close, I never held my camera directly up to the animals. I used a 70–200mm lens to take images from a distance.

At the same time, I am aware that I was also part of the visitor flow. I wanted to see the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar—just like many others. And in the end, every single person counts.

As much as I support the idea of bringing people closer to wildlife, I was aware in that moment that I was part of the problem myself. But what would the alternative be? Completely closing off the Upper Rock and no longer allowing anyone to enter? Limiting access to a fixed number of visitors? Or allowing only guided tours like those offered by Monkey Talk, in order to prevent the animals from being fed or touched?

Even though we did not initially find a group in the more remote areas that day, I observed the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar carefully.

One Barbary macaque was sitting on a railing and seemed to be repeatedly scanning its surroundings attentively.

Occasionally, it was also grooming its fur.

Speaking of grooming: Barbary macaques live in social groups in which each individual occupies a certain rank within a dominance hierarchy. Related animals, as well as individuals of similar rank, tend to spend more time together and show each other increased friendly behaviour. Grooming is part of this as well.

During grooming, the Barbary macaques pick through each other’s fur. This so-called grooming not only serves hygienic purposes but also plays an important role in strengthening social bonds within the group.

Importantly, our presence alone can already influence the behaviour of Barbary macaques in Gibraltar. It can happen that they begin grooming each other or show so-called self-directed behaviours—such as fidgeting, scratching, or yawning. While these behaviours also occur naturally, they can be triggered or intensified in certain situations by stress or uncertainty.

If an animal shows such reactions directly after a human approach, this can be an indication that it is uncomfortable. In such moments, it is advisable to keep your distance and move away. The behaviour may reflect uncertainty or indecision—for example between retreating and staying. In some cases, it can also escalate into a threat display, such as the so-called “rounded mouth threat” facial expression.

For people who are not very familiar with the animals, it is often difficult to correctly interpret their behaviour. This makes it all the more important to keep a respectful distance and to let the Barbary macaques decide for themselves how close they want to come.

A good way to observe them nonetheless is through guided tours such as those offered by Monkey Talk on the Upper Rock. Brian knows the animals and their behaviour very well and can assess when distance is necessary and where calm observation is possible.

Importantly, it should be mentioned that Barbary macaques are classified as “endangered” by the IUCN. The majority of the global population now lives in Morocco. In Europe, Barbary macaques are only found in Gibraltar, on the Upper Rock.

The animals living in Gibraltar today were most likely introduced by humans. However, this does not change the fact that the overall global population is still declining. According to the IUCN, habitat loss is one of the main reasons why Barbary macaques are increasingly struggling.

For the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar on the Upper Rock and elsewhere not to go extinct, reproduction is crucial.

On the Upper Rock, I was able to observe several juveniles moving around and playing together with their mothers or other young animals.

Barbary macaques live in a promiscuous mating system. This means that both males and females mate with multiple partners. As both males and females engage in mating with multiple partners, males generally cannot be certain which infants they have fathered. Consequently, males also take part in caring for infants, for example by playing with them or occasionally carrying them.

It is also important to note that females remain in their natal group, while males leave their natal groups over the course of their lives and transfer to other groups.

I tried to listen to Brian from Monkey Talk as attentively as possible, even though I wasn’t always successful. Too much was happening at the same time. I wanted to see everything, to take in every Barbary macaque in Gibraltar, and to capture as many impressions as possible in photographs. At times, my camera got in the way more than it helped me—and I had moments like that here as well with the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar.

We walked a bit further until we spotted a Barbary macaque sitting on a railing. Further back stood one of the many taxis.

A little further back, another Barbary macaque was sitting on a railing. From its fur, you could tell that it was a bit windy that day. For me, that actually made the weather feel more pleasant, even though it remained very warm in the afternoon.

By the way, the tours with Brian from Monkey Talk usually start about two to three hours before sunset. Depending on the time of year, the starting time can therefore be relatively late in the day.

When we were watching the Barbary macaque on the railing, the sun had not yet begun to set.

Nearby there was also another feeding spot where two Barbary macaques were staying.

As we were walking back, I spotted a Barbary macaque with an infant. Both of them were looking down at us from a wall.

In the first months of life, infants have dark fur, which gradually turns brownish over the course of about four months.

Another adult Barbary macaque was grooming a smaller member of the group. It may have been its own offspring.

However, the young macaque did not remain completely still under the larger animal’s hands—something seemed to be distracting or unsettling it.

And indeed, it became increasingly restless, until several younger Barbary macaques eventually started roughhousing with each other on the paved road.

Overall, however, the scene seemed more playful than aggressive. Admittedly, interpreting their behavior correctly was not easy—especially when you can only observe the animals for a few hours. That time is hardly enough to truly fully understand their behavior.

This is the major drawback of the way I travel: I visit places, observe animals, but I never get to know them well enough to truly understand their behavior.

Nevertheless, I noticed that the animals were becoming increasingly active—especially the juveniles. From time to time, they would sit back down with the adult animals, possibly to observe the situation from a safer position.

Suddenly, my attention was drawn away by a smaller Barbary macaque sitting in a tree.

Barbary macaques are excellent climbers. I tried to remain as inconspicuous as possible in order to observe it in its element. In doing so, I did not want to disturb it or influence its behavior. Whether I succeeded, I don’t know. In the end, I couldn’t make myself completely invisible, and the animals were already accustomed to humans anyway. A Barbary macaque that is not habituated to humans would usually withdraw immediately.

This young Barbary macaque also still had black fur.

For me, it was very difficult to estimate how old a Barbary macaque was in each case. Differences like that are probably something you only learn by observing the animals regularly.

In any case, I suspected that this juvenile was somewhat older than the others, which also still had dark fur but were noticeably smaller.

In the end, I decided to stop guessing and left it to Brian from Monkey Talk—and simply kept observing.

Because there was quite a lot to observe on the road.

Two Barbary macaques seemed to be communicating with each other. I noticed how diverse their facial expressions are. Nevertheless, I don’t want to go too far into interpreting this here, as I don’t know enough about it and I’m aware of how complex this topic actually is.

Just one more thing I’d like to add: Brian from Monkey Talk has prepared information boards about the facial expressions of Barbary macaques. These include, among others, the “bare-teeth display,” “teeth chattering,” and “lip smacking.”

Watching two of the smaller Barbary macaques change their facial expressions within just a few seconds was fascinating.

A mother Barbary macaque seemed not to notice (or not want to notice) much of the commotion. She was holding her infant in her arms, which kept suckling at her teat at times. Behind her sat another adult individual, grooming her.

At that point, a few more visitors started to arrive again. They were not only interested in the view over the city of Gibraltar and the sea with its numerous ships, but also in the monkeys. Some were tempted to touch the animals, but were stopped by Brian from Monkey Talk. A group of men seemed slightly intoxicated. A football match was scheduled for the evening, which they appeared to be already getting ready for. Fortunately, they soon moved away from the Barbary macaques again.

I took two final photos—one of a dozing Barbary macaque and another of one sitting on a rock—before we moved on and looked for another spot.

The previous location was not the best place to observe the Barbary macaques’ natural behavior in Gibraltar. Nevertheless, these are Barbary macaques that have, in a sense, adapted to the conditions present there—particularly to the many visitors. Unfortunately, they are also additionally attracted by being fed.

However, this adaptation does not work equally well for all groups. For that reason, Brian once again tried to locate another group: Barbary macaques in Gibraltar on the Upper Rock that tend to stay further away from the crowds.

Fortunately, we found one.

A Barbary macaque was sitting quietly in a tree, eating. Brian from Monkey Talk started to beam. Moments like these are rare and therefore all the more valuable.

The daily interaction with tourists, many of whom have little sense for wild animals, can be frustrating. All the more rewarding is it to observe animals in their natural habitat and see them express their natural behavior—like here, a Barbary macaque sitting calmly on a branch and feeding.

There were also juveniles in this group.

Although the conditions were not ideal for photography, that ultimately didn’t matter.

An adult Barbary macaque was striding along above us on a wall.

Another Barbary macaque, apparently somewhat younger, was moving comfortably along a railing. Barbary macaques are— as mentioned before— excellent climbers, and balancing seemed to pose no difficulty for it. Eventually, it climbed further up, where it had an even better view.

Shortly afterwards, another Barbary macaque also sat down on the railing.

Another Barbary macaque was searching the ground for something edible. Since we were standing on the road, I had to photograph it from below; above the stone wall there was soil.

Another one was scratching behind its ears, while yet another walked down the road next to us.

Finally, we reached the spot from which the Barbary macaques can be observed descending.

It didn’t take long before the first Barbary macaque appeared. Unfortunately, they did not descend right near us, so in the evening on the Upper Rock we could only observe them from a distance.

Still, at least two Barbary macaques could be seen.

Since the Barbary macaques were so far away, Brian decided to head to another location. On the way there, we encountered more Barbary macaques that showed no intention of climbing down from the Upper Rock.

Finally, we reached another spot where Barbary macaques were also present, along with other visitors.

Brian from Monkey Talk made a great effort to give me the best possible view of the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar on the Upper Rock at sunset. For me, it was completely fine not to find the perfect photo spot—I have developed a lot of patience by now and know that wild animals can only rarely be photographed under ideal conditions. I think my frustration tolerance is quite high at this point.

All the more I was happy to see the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar once again. The light was changing very quickly at that time.

It was getting increasingly dark.

We returned once more to the previous location. More Barbary macaques were making their way through the forest to climb down the steep cliffs.

One of the Barbary macaques could now be seen a bit closer, but the light was no longer as warm as before.

Well—that’s wildlife photography.

Maybe the conditions that day were not ideal for observing the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar on the Upper Rock. Nevertheless, I had a very good time with the animals and a strong interest in learning more about them. After all, it was not the first time I had encountered Barbary macaques—more on that later.

What I would like to highlight here is this: anyone interested in the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar on the Upper Rock can only be recommended to take a tour with Brian from Monkey Talk. He knows the animals well, lives locally, and sees the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar regularly. With great dedication, he works to educate people about responsible behavior and respectful encounters with the macaques.

Where else can you observe Barbary macaques?

In Germany, there are also opportunities to observe Barbary macaques. However, there are no wild Barbary macaques living in Germany. At Affenberg Salem in the Bodenseekreis region in southern Germany, you can experience them up close. I have already written about this in a previous blog post, so I will not go into further detail here.

There is also another place in northern Germany, in Malchow, where Barbary macaques can be seen. Of course, these are not wild animals there either. I have also written about this location in a previous article.

At both sites, the Barbary macaques live outdoors and are able to move relatively freely—so they are not typical zoo enclosures.

The photo shows a Barbary macaque I observed at Affenberg Salem.

Practical information

How to get there

Accommodation

I stayed in an accommodation from which it was not far to the runway. I didn’t particularly like the accommodation, but it was fine for one night. Therefore, I cannot recommend any accommodation in La Línea de la Concepción here.

More information

Do you know the Barbary macaques in Gibraltar? Or have you seen them somewhere else? Feel free to leave a comment and share your experience.