In May, I had the chance to enjoy a very special nature experience: encountering grey seals in the Bay of Wismar – a fascinating sight amidst the quiet, vast coastal landscape. With a bit of luck, you can even spot harbour seals here. Did I manage to see them? In this blog post, I’ll take you along on my journey there. Of course, I also took the opportunity to stroll through the charming Hanseatic city of Wismar. Enjoy reading and discovering!
The city of Wismar
For quite some time, I had wished to observe sand martins on the island of Poel. Then, when I discovered that you can also experience grey seals in the Bay of Wismar from a boat, I quickly knew: that’s where I wanted to go!
But where would be the ideal starting point for these nature observations?
The decision came surprisingly fast – almost instinctively, I chose Wismar. And not just on a whim: the city lies exactly between the island of Poel and the departure point for the grey seal boat tours – ideal for reaching both destinations conveniently by bike.
Wismar also proved to be a perfect base for cycling tours. Numerous well-developed bike paths lead out of the city in all directions – an excellent foundation for exploring the region.
Information: Would you like to learn more about the sand martins on the island of Poel? Then take a look at one of my earlier blog posts – there you’ll find exciting insights and photos.
Looking back, choosing Wismar was definitely the right decision. The city pleasantly surprised me with its calm, clean, and charming atmosphere. It’s also friendly—quite different from the hectic Berlin I traveled from (though Berlin certainly has its own advantages).
I arrived on a quiet Thursday afternoon—it was a public holiday, so not a typical weekday in Wismar. As I wandered through the streets, I wondered: Where is everyone?
Although I occasionally encountered a few passersby, overall the streets seemed almost deserted.
But that didn’t bother me at all—in fact, quite the opposite. The calm only emphasized the relaxed vibe of the city and helped me slow down immediately.
Down by the harbour, however, there was a lively buzz — a fair was taking place.
Since I’m not much of a fair fan myself, I left the colorful spectacle behind and continued strolling through the streets of Wismar.
What immediately caught my eye were the colorful facades. Bright, lovingly designed, inviting — simply beautiful.
I’m not particularly fond of gray, monotonous cities. But Wismar is the exact opposite: lively, friendly, full of character.
I couldn’t get enough of all the details and colors.
Information: Did you know that Wismar is the sixth largest city in Mecklenburg-West Pomerania? Around 43,000 people live here (as of the end of 2024). Additionally, since 2002, Wismar’s old town—together with that of Stralsund—has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
I was particularly impressed by the numerous brick buildings, which are so typical of North German towns. This includes St. Nicholas Church (German: “Nikolaikirche”), one of Wismar’s most distinctive landmarks.
My accommodation was located very close to this church—a choice that proved to be very convenient. I stayed right in the old town, which meant I was right in the heart of the city’s historic center.
The lower picture shows a small watercourse — this is the Mühlenbach. Following its course leads you straight to the harbour.
The tower of St. Mary’s Church (German: “Marienkirche”) is also made of brick. It is visible from afar and serves as a useful landmark in the city.
Not far from the church Nikolaibrücke is the so-called bridge Schweinsbrücke, which crosses the watercourse Mühlenbach. The adjacent street Schweinsstraße is named after this bridge.
The pig sculptures on the bridge are especially popular with tourists. They serve as a reminder of earlier times when herds of pigs were driven along this path to the market.
Information: My accommodation was located near the Schweinsbrücke, a very pleasant and quiet area. I recommend starting your search for lodging in Wismar as early as possible. About two months before my trip, I couldn’t find any affordable hotels or hostels with available rooms. That’s why I turned to Airbnb, and I was very happy with that choice.
Wismar is also known as the Hanseatic City of Wismar, as it was a member of the Hanseatic League during the Middle Ages. The Hanseatic League was an alliance of trading cities, primarily consisting of port cities like Wismar.
Its goal was to promote the economic interests of its members and secure trading privileges. The Hanseatic cities benefited from shared trade routes, protection against piracy, and a stronger negotiating position with other powers.
Other important Hanseatic cities in Germany include Hamburg, Lübeck, and Bremen.
I’ll save a deeper dive into Wismar’s history — after all, this post is mainly about the grey seals in Wismar Bay.
Still, I don’t want to leave you without a few final photographic impressions of Wismar and its impressive architecture.
Before I get to the grey seals in the Bay of Wismar, I’d like to mention that the city offers plenty of green spaces that invite you to relax and linger.
For example, along the Mühlenbach…
… or in the beautiful Lindengarten.
One evening, I sat there on a bench, listening to the birdsong. Suddenly, a European robin and a Eurasian blackcap took turns singing — a wonderful moment.
I even managed to capture the robin with my camera.
Wismar is not only beautiful but also incredibly welcoming — I spotted a saying in a window that read: “Step in, bring happiness with you.” (German: “Tritt ein, bring Glück herein.”) That’s exactly how the city feels: open, warm-hearted, and full of life.
After these impressions, it’s time to move on to the fascinating grey seals in Wismar Bay.
Information: If you’re looking to rent a bike in Wismar, there are plenty of providers to choose from. I personally rented a city bike at the Alter Holzhafen. The process was smooth and straightforward. I paid 10 euros for the day.
Grey seals in the Bay of Wismar
For me, photographing animals in their natural habitat is one of the most beautiful, yet also most challenging, experiences. So, my excitement was great when the opportunity arose to observe the grey seals in the Bay of Wismar. I was fortunate enough to get a spot on the MS Seebär and take part in a guided tour.
But even during the trip, it became clear: this wouldn’t be an easy day for photography. The distance to the animals, the constantly rocking boat, and the many other nature enthusiasts on board made taking photos a real challenge. And yes – the big, standout shots didn’t happen this time.
But that’s okay. Because for me, one thing always comes first: not disturbing the animals. No photo in the world is worth interfering with their lives. What matters far more is that they feel safe and can display their natural behaviour.
Information: If you ever want to join a boat tour with the MS Seebär yourself, I highly recommend arriving at least an hour before departure. On my tour, the spots filled up quickly – many who arrived later, unfortunately, had to turn back. The meeting point is at Pier D of the Weiße Wiek in Boltenhagen (Tarnewitz district).
Slowly, the MS Seebär set course for the Lieps sandbank – a popular resting spot for grey seals. This shallow sandbank is a protected area in the middle of the Bay of Wismar and is especially favored by these large marine mammals. With a bit of luck, you can spot not only grey seals there, but occasionally also harbour seals.
Even on the way there, there was already much to see: a small group of mute swans glided majestically across the water, while a herring gull floated calmly on the waves – a peaceful start to our little journey into the world of Baltic Sea wildlife.
Information: For more information on departure times and available tours, you can visit the MS Seebär website. On selected days, the tour is accompanied by a seal expert from BUND, who provides fascinating insights into the lives of the grey seals. It’s also worth checking out the Instagram profile of BUND Klützer Winkel, where you’ll regularly find updates, photos, and interesting facts about the seals in the region.
The journey continued — and so did the discoveries. Time and again, we encountered various bird species. Was that an eider duck over there? Yes, indeed — a lone eider duck was gliding across the water. How wonderful! I had already seen them on Heligoland and in Iceland, yet I always get excited whenever I spot one.
A little later, I saw a common gull take flight. Had we startled it with the boat? Or was it already about to leave? The boat moved slowly and considerately — just as it should when entering the habitat of wild animals.
Finally, we approached the sandbank. And indeed — there were seals, packed closely together, their bodies resting in the sun. But how many were there? And did they all belong to the same species? Were they exclusively grey seals, or had a few harbour seals joined them?
Most of the time, grey seals make up the majority on the Lieps sandbank. But every now and then, harbour seals can also be spotted. The number of animals you can see there varies from day to day. This depends on many factors — such as the tides, the weather, or disturbances caused by recreational boats that sometimes pass too close to the sandbank.
Then the moment had arrived: we reached the Lieps sandbank, one of the most important resting places for grey seals in the Bay of Wismar. On board, the atmosphere grew noticeably more excited — everyone pressed against the railing, eager to observe the grey seals in their natural environment. Unfortunately, we didn’t spot any harbour seals that day.
By the way, it’s not so easy to tell grey seals and harbour seals apart — at least not for me. While there are some typical distinguishing features, it can be tricky to tell them apart, especially on the water or from a distance.
Grey seals are noticeably larger than harbour seals: male grey seals can grow up to 2.5 meters long, while harbour seals reach a maximum length of about 1.6 meters. The most striking difference, however, is the shape of their heads. Harbour seals have a rounded face, whereas the grey seal’s head is elongated and more angular. I often find it especially difficult to make a clear identification with young animals — they can look very similar when they’re young. It’s only with fully grown animals that the difference becomes more obvious.
Interesting: Another distinguishing feature is the nose — if you’re close enough to see it. Grey seals have parallel nostrils, while harbour seals’ nostrils form a distinct V shape.
I wasn’t just keeping an eye on the grey seals on the sandbank — there was plenty happening in the water around the boat, too. Time and again, a seal would suddenly surface, looking curiously out of the water or calmly swimming by. I had to stay alert not to miss any of the grey seals in the Bay of Wismar.
Have you ever heard of “bottling”? It’s a typical behaviour of grey seals: they float horizontally in the water, usually with just their head or nose above the surface. They almost look like a bottle calmly drifting — hence the term “bottling.” It’s even suspected that they sometimes doze or sleep in this position.
Unfortunately, I didn’t get to see any grey seals “bottling” that day — but I did see some swimming and curiously peeking out of the water. That too was a quiet, special moment.
Interesting: Watching a grey seal “bottle” is considered a good sign — because this posture shows that the animal feels safe. For grey seals, “bottling” is a typical relaxed pose.
Besides the grey seals, there were also many birds to discover on the tour. Particularly striking were the numerous cormorants and common merganser gathered in one area of the sandbank.
We sailed a bit further. It was hard to tell just how large the sandbank actually was, since parts of it were submerged underwater. But slightly away from the grey seals and the other birds, more of the sandbank became visible — and right there, a particularly large group of cormorants had gathered.
Information: Other bird species that have been spotted on the sandbank include, among others, the Eurasian curlew, great black-backed gull, sanderlings, common ringed plovers, greylag geese, and Eurasian wigeon. This is just a small selection. Many migratory birds also use the Bay of Wismar as an important resting area on their way to their wintering grounds.
Speaking of cormorants: you don’t always see so many cormorants on the sandbank — especially not when a white-tailed eagle is nearby. It has been known for the cormorants to completely leave the sandbank as soon as a white-tailed eagle appears. However, during the boat trip I took, there was no eagle around.
Very close to the group of cormorants, there was a lone grey seal. It looked very relaxed and hardly seemed bothered.
Did you know that when seals stretch their heads and hind flippers upward, they are in what’s called the “banana position”? Yes, I didn’t know that before either — but it makes sense: in this position, they really do look almost like a banana. I even spotted a seal lying almost exactly like that, in the typical “banana position.”
We headed back to the part of the sandbank we had visited earlier. This time, we were able to observe mute swans that hadn’t been visible before. Here and there, a grey seal swam in the water as well. Overall, the grey seals and birds seemed to hardly disturb each other.
While watching the grey seals in the Bay of Wismar, I noticed how different their fur looked. In fact, you can often tell their gender by it: males usually have dark fur with light spots, while females mostly have light fur with dark spots.
Every now and then, a seal can have quite scruffy or unkempt-looking fur — but that’s no cause for concern. Usually, it’s simply due to their annual molt. Both grey seals and harbour seals renew their fur once a year. During this time, they rest on land — or, like the grey seals in the Bay of Wismar, comfortably on the Lieps sandbank.
By the way, grey seal pups are born with white, fluffy fur called lanugo. While it looks soft and cuddly, it doesn’t protect the pups from cold water. That’s why they would quickly get cold when wet, even though they are physically already able to swim.
In the past, I’ve had the chance to observe grey seals on Heligoland — a truly special experience.
Information: Did you know that harbour seal pups can swim shortly after birth? They are considered precocial — but during the first few days, their mothers still lead and accompany them into the water, as they continue to nurse. Unlike grey seal pups, harbour seals have water-repellent fur from the very beginning, which protects them from getting cold.
Speaking of seal pups: in the Baltic Sea, grey seal pups are born as late as February — significantly later than in the North Sea, where the birthing season, for example on Heligoland, begins as early as November. In the Baltic Sea, female grey seals choose secluded beach areas to give birth to a single pup.
The nursing period lasts about two to three weeks, after which the mother leaves her pup. The pup remains on the beach for another two weeks, during which it molts its lanugo and eventually starts exploring the Baltic Sea on its own — or simply lies down on the beach to rest.
During my time in and around Wismar, however, I didn’t see any seals on the beach. Only on the Lieps sandbank.
Information: If you ever spot a seal on the beach, please inform the German Oceanographic Museum at 0173-9688267 or call the BUND Seal Hotline at 0152-37969472. This ensures that the animal can be properly monitored and protected if necessary.
It’s also interesting that since 2024, BUND Klützer Winkel has been using the scientific method of photo-identification. This involves taking numerous photos of the grey seals’ fur patterns, as each animal has a unique pattern — comparable to a human fingerprint.
Using these images, individual seals can be recognized, even years later. This allows researchers to determine which grey seals live in or regularly visit the Bay of Wismar — and whether new animals join the group. The great advantage of this method is that it provides important insights without disturbing the animals.
Information: By the way, there is a third seal species in the Baltic Sea: the ringed seal. However, it does not occur in the Bay of Wismar because it depends on stable ice and snow surfaces for breeding — at least 90 days a year. It gets its name from the light ring patterns on its fur.
Spring is said to be the best season to observe seals in the Baltic Sea — including the grey seals in the Bay of Wismar. During this time, they find especially many fish, which draws them closer to the coast.
Did you know that grey seals had almost completely disappeared from our coasts by the early 20th century? Intensive hunting and severe water pollution had nearly wiped them out. It wasn’t until the 1990s, with a strict hunting ban and noticeable improvements in water quality thanks to numerous conservation measures, that they began to return slowly.
According to information on the Instagram profile of BUND Klützer Winkel, about 200 grey seals now live permanently in Mecklenburg-West Pomerania. Across the entire Baltic Sea, the population is estimated to be around 30,000 to 40,000 animals (July 2025).
The work of BUND is enormously important — because the Baltic Sea faces numerous challenges. Overfishing, oxygen depletion caused by eutrophication, the destruction of seagrass meadows, leftover munitions, increasing ship traffic, and plastic pollution in the sea are just a few of them. Unfortunately, the list could go on for quite some time.
Information: The harbour porpoise also lives in the Baltic Sea. When I was in Flensburg, I learned a lot about the challenges this fascinating marine mammal species and conservation organizations face. Feel free to check out one of my earlier blog posts to learn more about it.
Photos of grey seals with constrictions have already been shared on the Instagram profile of BUND Klützer Winkel. These images are hard to bear but clearly show how plastic waste, fishing nets, or fishing lines can tighten around the animals’ necks. This is especially life-threatening for young grey seals, as they are still growing — such constrictions can even lead to suffocation.
An important tip from BUND: when playing with dogs, it’s better to use flying discs instead of throwing rings. Throwing rings can wrap around a grey seal’s neck and dangerously tighten.
If you ever see a grey seal on the beach, please follow these rules according to BUND:
- Keep at least 100 meters distance from the seals
- Never block their escape route to the sea
- Do not feed or touch the seals
- Keep dogs on a leash
You can report a seal sighting to the BUND Seal Hotline (0152-37969472) or the German Oceanographic Museum (0173-9688267). BUND Mecklenburg-West Pomerania also sets up temporary seal exclusion zones when a seal is resting on the beach.
If you’re interested in a boat tour to see the grey seals in the Bay of Wismar, I can only recommend taking the opportunity — it’s a truly special experience to observe the grey seals in their natural environment.
Tipp: Be sure to arrive early, as reservations are not possible. I was there on a Saturday — and since the Thursday before was a public holiday, more than half of the people waiting in line couldn’t join the trip.
Practical information
MS Seebär
The MS Seebär is a cozy excursion boat that takes visitors comfortably to the grey seals in the Bay of Wismar. Unfortunately, boarding is not wheelchair accessible, and due to limited space, strollers, wagons, or bicycles cannot be taken on board.
A maximum of 50 people are allowed on board to ensure the trip remains both safe and pleasant. Since reservations are not possible, you should arrive at least one hour before departure. The trip starts at Weiße Wiek, Pier D, in Boltenhagen/Tarnewitz.
It’s also important to mention that payment on board is cash only; card payments are not accepted.
Arrival and accommodation
As mentioned earlier, I stayed overnight in Wismar. This gave me not only the chance to explore the beautiful town but also to discover the other side of the Bay of Wismar — the island of Poel. Thanks to Deutsche Bahn, Wismar is very well connected by train, and the station is centrally located, so my accommodation near St. Nicholas Church was within easy walking distance.
The boat tour started in Boltenhagen, which is easily accessible by bike. Since there are many well-developed cycling paths around Wismar, this was the perfect way for me to get around and explore the region flexibly.
Regarding accommodation, I won’t make a specific recommendation, as there are many options — from hotels and guesthouses to private rentals — and everyone has different preferences. I personally chose a private Airbnb rental and was very satisfied with it.
More informationen
Nature conservation in the Bay of Wismar (in German)
Instagram of BUND Klützer Winkel (in German)
Official webseite ob MS Seebär (in German)
Do you know the grey seals in the Bay of Wismar? Or have you seen grey seals somewhere else? Let us know in the comments.
